I've all the time loved putting in residential tile. There's one thing about pondering creatively and making an inventive assertion that appeals to me with the problem. To precise a buyer's design imaginative and prescient requires good communication expertise and at the very least some instinct. Making a buyer pleased and feeling snug of their dwelling surroundings makes me pleased, too. Nothing can evaluate to the satisfaction of understanding a job has been effectively completed, in seeing a lovely and correctly put in tile job. And, certainly, a glass mosaic tile set up can look incredible. This glass mosaic set up positive was a problem in it is complexity.
A short time in the past Debbie and Wealthy requested me to complete a bathroom that would come with tiling a steamer/shower encompass with glass mosaic tile, for shower pan, partitions, and ceiling. They selected a clear glass mosaic referred to as Tesserra pink #777, non-iridescent, by Oceanside Glasstile of Lengthy Seashore, Calif. I imagine they wished to see in addition to really feel the pink sizzling warmth of a steam bath. The glass mosaic tiles had been of the identical pink hue, however randomly various in saturation: some glass tiles had been darker or lighter than others.
Every one inch sq. handmade mosaic glass tile was 1 / 4 inch thick with a completed face floor that was seemingly chipped, crazed, or irregular, not . The tiles got here in sheets twelve inches sq., face glued to brown backing paper with a water soluble adhesive much like that used for wallpaper. The tiles jogged my memory of chipped ice cubes, with sides tapered away from the face and a flat again barely textured from molds. Most tiles had been pretty sq., some had been barely trapezoidal in form, because the molten glass poured into the molds overflowed a sixteenth inch to kind a sheet that was damaged aside after cooling.
The bathroom had been framed in and sheetrocked partitions and ceiling earlier than my involvement, with inexperienced board positioned within the steamer/shower encompass space. I wished to leap proper in, assuming I may apply a builder's felt paper moisture barrier over the greenboard, then set up cementitious backerboard and parge it with a waterproofing membrane to comprise steam. However, being a relative newbie to any mosaic tile installations, it was an excellent factor that I had some uncertainty, so I made a decision to speak first to Oceanside's technical help specialists.
Technical help insisted that I take away the greenboard from the steamer/shower encompass. Initially developed as a substrate for instantly making use of tile, greenboard has now change into unacceptable for any bathroom use in accordance with constructing code. Additionally, there was an opportunity, nonetheless slight, that steam moisture may permeate the waterproofing membrane and finally dampen any sheetrock or greenboard, inflicting deterioration and mould buildup the place it may by no means dry out. Extra lately developed cementitious backerboard, code accepted, performs much better for tile, particularly in a moist surroundings.
Then, a key level to this complete set up, technical help strongly suggested me to not apply a waterproofing membrane instantly behind any clear tile. Water will surely settle behind the tile, particularly the place steam would power it, inflicting a splotchy look the place some tile would areas seem darker than different areas. Untreated backerboard would enable water to diffuse away.
Lastly, enlargement joints are important for glass tile installations, in addition to most different tiles, particularly in a steamer surroundings the place temperature swings are most pronounced. In any other case, glass tiles, being brittle, may crack or pop off below shear stress. I used to be suggested to put in enlargement joints on the inside corners of partitions and ceiling, as this steamer/shower encompass measured four'6" vast, 7'6" excessive, and three'6" deep. In fact, the steamer/shower encompass space 2x4 partitions and ceiling had been insulated with R-13 fiberglass batts.
With any steamer/shower, it's advisable to slope the tiled ceiling for water runoff to cut back the prospect of steam condensation inflicting dripping. I reframed the flat ceiling to offer a slope of 1 inch per foot, this being a judgment name on my half, whereas the Tile Council of North America recommends a slope of two inches per foot (SR614-05).
After eradicating greenboard within the steamer/shower encompass space partitions and ceiling, I put in builder's felt paper over wall studs and ceiling joists, and lapped it over the shower pan vinyl membrane as a remaining barrier to water penetration. I then put in half of" cdx plywood, which does have some exterior water publicity score, not like greenboard. The plywood had the additional benefit of stiffening encompass partitions and ceiling, making a steady base for the glass mosaic tile. I ended the plywood on the built-in seat stage 16" above the shower pan, as a result of I used to be involved about water in any other case wicking up via the plywood from the shower pan mortarbed. Under seat stage I put in 1/four" backerboard over the shower pan vinyl membrane after which utilized hydraulic cement parging to straighten backerboard bulges attributable to vinyl membrane folds and to deliver the backerboard into aircraft with the half of" plywood.
I taped and mudded all plywood and backerboard joints with white alkaline resistant fiberglass mesh tape and thinset. Thinset is just not impervious to water, after all. Then I utilized two skinny coats of Mapei's trowel-on waterproofing membrane system consisting of Mapelastic #315 powder combined with undiluted Mapelastic #315 liquid. The powder is bolstered with fiberglass fibers and the liquid is an acrylic latex admixture. Make sure to put on outdated clothes when utilizing this product, as a result of on the consistency of skinny pancake batter, the combination might get throughout you, particularly when working overhead. When set, the waterproofing membrane stays surprisingly versatile and adheres very strongly to something. All inside plywood corners had been taped, mudded, and waterproofed.
Over the waterproofed plywood and backerboard, I put in half of" backerboard, and I once more taped and mudded all joints, being cautious to avoid inside corners. Within the backerboard nook enlargement joints, I put in 1/four" closed cell polyurethane backer rod, which is water-resistant. I caulked over the backer rod with gray Latisil NS polyurethane versatile joint filler/sealant.
After this preparation, I used to be able to tile. I used to be very involved in regards to the one inch sq. mosaic structure, attempting to remove glass cuts and to stability the sector width and top. I procured a pair of glass mosaic tile carbide nippers (accessible from stained glass provide retailers or via the tile provider), which minimize the glass with a chiseling motion. The tiles can also be minimize by a moist tile noticed with a steady, smooth-rim diamond blade, however I most well-liked to make use of a hand-held four" dry grinder with diamond wheel to trim and sq. nipper cuts. The glass acted in a trend much like chiseling ice - I may by no means make sure of an preliminary sq. minimize, however with some apply, the nippers labored fairly effectively. Because it turned out, the structure was pretty simple to regulate with the approximate 1/eight" to 1/16" spacing of the considerably irregular tiles. I attempted most of all to make use of greater than a half tile. The place minimize for structure, it was greatest to chop the tiles a bit greater than it appeared mandatory.
I began tiling with the shower pan the place I may lap over structure cuts on the perimeter with full wall tiles. Putting in a sq. drain cowl helped to make tile cuts simpler and complemented the sq. tile theme. I used Mapei Kerabond #102 white dry-set mortar with undiluted Keralastic #310 liquid acrylic latex admixture to reinforce bond and flexural power. I vastly appreciated it is lengthy open time for this difficult set up. Utilizing the flat aspect of a trowel, I utilized the thinset after which raked it with a three/16"x1/four" V-notched trowel to ascertain the correct depth of the setting mattress. I then used the flat aspect of the trowel once more to flatten notch traces and cut back the potential of air pockets or voids, leading to a constant setting mattress 1/eight" thick.
The shower pan, seat, partitions, and ceiling tile mosaic sheets had been then utilized to the setting mattress with brown face paper outward, utilizing mild even stress to ascertain setting mattress contact and remove voids. Then, to attain a uniform end floor, a three/four" plywood beating block was calmly tapped with a hammer. I labored shortly making use of subsequent sheets with grout joints aligned to keep away from skinning of the setting mattress and to unify the general tile floor with the beating block. After 15-20 minutes of setting time, I calmly misted the brown backing paper with a family spray bottle a number of occasions, patting with a sponge, utilizing a combination of water and a small quantity of DIF wallpaper remover. After the water absorbed into the paper, the glue launched from the paper, permitting the paper to be fastidiously and slowly peeled away to the aspect with out lifting tiles out. Timing of paper removing was essential to not pull tiles out whereas on the identical time permitting for tiles spacing changes within the setting mattress's semi-fresh/versatile state. Explicit consideration was paid earlier than remaining set to make grout joints changes seem random between particular person tiles and adjoining paper sheets to remove the sheet sample. Some particular person tiles would possibly sag over time - I'd finally take away them, scrape out the thinset behind, then reattach with some new thinset. I even used some plastic tile spacer wedges the place mandatory.
Some thinset would ooze into and fill adjoining grout joints, however the setting mattress was allowed to treatment in a single day. Then, taking a putty knife, extra thinset might be scraped out from grout joints when nonetheless comparatively mushy, whereas not disturbing the tiles. After extra curing time, I may then take away residual paper and glue by wiping clear with a moist sponge. I waited for a number of extra days earlier than grouting to make certain the thinset had cured.
However earlier than grouting, I stuffed nook enlargement joints with a coloration matching sanded caulk to make certain grout didn't fill the joints. I used to be amazed on the holding energy of the thinset, as in the course of the utility of grout, I actually needed to power it into tile joints. I used a Mapei Keracolor S sanded pearl gray grout. In fact, glass tile is impervious to moisture, so the grout will take a bit longer to set than in any other case.
After cleansing and sealing the grout, I used to be capable of stand again and really feel glad understanding I rose to the problem and achieved one thing out of the atypical. Hopefully Debbie and Wealthy are pleased and capable of take pleasure in many stress-free steam baths.